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Arch - 5.5 popular

Average Rating = 3.70/5 Average Rating : 3.70 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 130
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (62)
Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden
Rock (Trad)
PG13
2
gunks rack,longer draws to help with rope drag.
260
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.72/5
  Rock Quality 3.78/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.72/5

Description:

This climbs a prominent arch formed by some overhangs. Start on the right side and trend right following the [path of least resistance. Exit right to a ledge near the top of the Arch. The rest of the climb is lower quality wandering up the brushy face above. From GT ledge, gain upper face through a notch in overhang. Climb straight up to roof. Exit/pull roof via crack on the left. Very fun.

Descent Options:

Rap off of slings and rap rings on pine tree or use bolted rappel route located to the right from top out.

Submitted by: mcj on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 753
Route ID: 2033

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62 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: juliacoreyburns on 2009-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars liked it.

Dana led and i seconded (we did the pitches as part of two separate link-ups) it was a really nice climb. would like to go back and lead it soon.

Added: 2009-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: breaksteel on 2009-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Hated it

I was having a good time climbing the face. Once at the traverse I decided to not protect until around to the outside face to minimize rope drag. I was about 15+- feet above my last piece at this time. I made the traverse and got to the other face and found no protection once there. I had climbed another 10-15 feet up and right and found pro above my head. Looking at a HUGE pendulum and a 50-60 footer I was not happy trying to get this overhead blind placement in. Belaying by the pine tree sucked too. This is the first climb at the Gunks I hate. Did only the first pitch as I was put off by this one. Not for a 5.4 leader, maybe not even a 5.5 leader in my opinion.

Added: 2009-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: mwill on 2009-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Arch

Decent climb with some fun moves. Rope drag is a serious issue, if you don't have longer slings you may get stuck belaying from the first pine tree/rap station - tiny and uncomfortable. I also would not recommend doing this climb when it's wet - not a huge problem but also not as much fun.

Added: 2009-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: xpsucore09x on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Arch

Lead just the first pitch. I got lost on the second pitch and was told its not worth doing anyways.

Added: 2009-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: girlyoutalkto on 2009-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun!

Followed 1st pitch, led the 2nd. Top was a bit dirty but the traverse was fun.

Added: 2009-07-09

... Read all 62 ascent notes