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Art's Route - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.56/5 Average Rating : 3.56 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 464
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Art Gran, 1960s
Rock (Trad)
G
1
G to three inches. No small stuff needed
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.57/5
  Rock Quality 3.71/5
  Scenery 3.29/5
  Fun Factor 3.71/5

Description:

Start at a steep crack below a large open book that leads to a big roof on the front of the Pinnacle. Make the tough first moves up the crack (crux 1) and get established on easier terrain in the open book. Wander up to the roof (old piton), clean the dookie off the right hand jug. Get a high 3-4 inch piece and muscle through the roof (crux 2). Wander up an left to the big belay tree.

Descent Options:

No slings on tree, consider downclimbig the back of the pinnacle.

Submitted by: lucander on 2007-04-23
Views: 1087
Route ID: 85295

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2014-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tricky

Big reach for a shorty. That said, you are going for huge jugs. Excellent gear throughout.

Added: 2014-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2012-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very fun and interesting route

It did feel harder than a 9. Very long reach for this shorty. Not an obvious way through the crux.

Added: 2012-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2010-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Awkward.

This is one of the harder 9's I have done, with a couple cruxy awkward moves. The rest is super easy. We also found a shedded copperhead skin, so I was careful not to jam any cracks after that :)

Added: 2010-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: local_guy on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars went back and killed it

work the feet, get the hands up, etc

Added: 2009-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: danabart on 1998-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Overlooked gem

Well protected with interesting moves.

Added: 2009-03-03

... Read all 9 ascent notes