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Big Chimney - 5.5

Average Rating = 2.25/5 Average Rating : 2.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 97
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
small to medium cams and nuts
150
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.33/5
  Rock Quality 1.50/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 2.67/5

Description:

Chimney system right of Matinee

Submitted by: admin on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1614
Route ID: 43730

8 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2009-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars I thought this was the worst climb....ever

The first pitch is totally unprotected and is a bit slippery. The traverse around to the belay is awkward. P2 runs up the far side of the pitch, up the crack. Use both sides of the chimney, with your back to the carriage road and shimmy on up. P3, we did Miss Bailey, this pitch was a delight, with a very exciting traverse.

Added: 2009-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnely on 2009-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars 3rd pitch has you thinking

It takes care to protect the first pitch so there is no danger of ground fall; medium cams in the parallel before the traverse as I recall. We did the 3rd pitch too; it is hard for 5.6, and the scary and loose looking blocks did not move on us, but that's no guarantee for the next party.

Added: 2009-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: adatesman on 2008-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ugh.

P1- Great fun and not as run out as I was lead to believe (although ground fall was an issue if you slid out of the chimney). P2- apparently it makes a difference which way you face. I was facing the carriage road and was hating life. P3- Looked ugly and since it was the end of the day and we were exhausted we skipped it. FWIW, didn't look any worse than what you find at Delaware Water Gap (where I normally climb), so next time I'll do it earlier in the day and finish it off properly.

Added: 2008-12-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2008-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Big Chimney

This is one of this times that I curse myself for being convinced that you cannot claim an ascent unless you do the whole route. Third pitch is the worst climbing I've done in the Gunks: Loose blocks, dying trees, cliffside ecosystems. Still - don't say you climbed it if you didn't follow Fritz's line =)

Added: 2008-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ryanv on 2004-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Climbed the first pitch on 8/7/04 but had to bail due to time constraints. Came back and did the first two chimneys up to the GT ledge. Both chimneys were runout until near the top. R rated in my opinion unless you are using Big Bros. Finished on the 2nd pitch of Baby from the GT ledge as the last pitch of Big Chimney goes up some very large, very loose looking blocks.

Witnessed by: Himanshu
Added: 2004-08-14

... Read all 8 ascent notes