Big Chimney - 5.5 popular

The first pitch is totally unprotected and is a bit slippery. The traverse around to the belay is awkward. P2 runs up the far side of the pitch, up the crack. Use both sides of the chimney, with your back to the carriage road and shimmy on up. P3, we did Miss Bailey, this pitch was a delight, with a very exciting traverse.

It takes care to protect the first pitch so there is no danger of ground fall; medium cams in the parallel before the traverse as I recall. We did the 3rd pitch too; it is hard for 5.6, and the scary and loose looking blocks did not move on us, but that's no guarantee for the next party.

I led this route on saturday after a few days of rain followed by one dry day. I faced the carriage road and shimmy'ed up the chimney. GREAT fun.. but I love chimneys.

The interesting part was that the wall on the carriage-road side was completely soaked. the crag side was dry. I chose (perhaps erroneously) to put my back to the dry side (*laugh*... didn't want to crap-up my marmot jacket :)

It was fun. The crux was a little butt-puckering due to the fact that the wet wall created wet shoes (AND there are no feet coming around the corner) and my hands were damp. BUT after committing to it (and founding a FAR chip for my foot) it wasn't really that bad.

There is a crack on the roof that takes a bomber placement for a red camalot (if i remember correctly).

I'd do this route again - it was interesting fun for a 5.6.

There IS a potential for a ground-fall because the first placement is about 15-20 feet up. BUT the climbing is easy if ya just relax in the chimney.

P1- Great fun and not as run out as I was lead to believe (although ground fall was an issue if you slid out of the chimney). P2- apparently it makes a difference which way you face. I was facing the carriage road and was hating life. P3- Looked ugly and since it was the end of the day and we were exhausted we skipped it. FWIW, didn't look any worse than what you find at Delaware Water Gap (where I normally climb), so next time I'll do it earlier in the day and finish it off properly.

This is one of this times that I curse myself for being convinced that you cannot claim an ascent unless you do the whole route. Third pitch is the worst climbing I've done in the Gunks: Loose blocks, dying trees, cliffside ecosystems. Still - don't say you climbed it if you didn't follow Fritz's line =)