A really nice two-pitch start to Johnny Vegas if you're arriving late and getting in line. Just to the left of Solar Slab Gully and to the right of Johnny Vegas is a huge, 250' tall white flake that is leaning up against the wall. This route ascends the chimney formed by it and the main wall on the right side. Approach as per Johnny Vegas, but climb up a small gully to the base of the chimney (50', 4th class) Pitch 1:Head up the chimney system through two distinct cruxes before exiting left onto the face and then up about 30' to a belay stance. 5.9, 170' Pitch 2: Head up the corner for about 15' before exiting right onto the face. Continue up the face (just right of pitch 3 of Johnny Vegas) until meeting up with Johnny Vegas. 5.6, 150'. Finish via Johnny Vegas (5.0- 70').
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-06
Route ID: 63221
Spelling of route is incorrect on title of this page. Fantastic route in reference to the lower Solar Slab area, yet gets no stars from Handren? Real surprised. Excellent long 5.9 chimney with several grade moves on solid black varnish. Easy to protect. A bit cold in December, but a must if you are into Beulah's Book. The 2nd pitch was a real nice 5.7 by Red Rocks standards. I took that second pitch to the very top of Johnny Vegas's 3rd pitch, but we are talking a full 200' stretcher to do this. With Ben.
This was the coldest pitch of the day. The first pitch was kinda interesting, with crumbling rock and a huge puddle at the base. Fun moves though. I didn't pull the roof on the second crux because it looks like it's about to blow off a 100 pound chunk right at the bottom and I am a big guy. Went for the face on the right. I blew off a foothold on the ascent gully through the tree, and this really set the mood for the first pitch. I think I broke 4 or 5 holds. Not cool, either of me or of the rock. If it's any consolation, I don't think I blew any hold of significance...