Approach via the 5 pitch Solar Slab Gulley route. Pitch 1: once on the terrace climb the crack 10 feet right of and parallel to Solar Slab p1 to the belay ledge. Pitch 2: climb the right slanting finger crack to a shared belay with Sunflower p1 - there is one bolt and good gear here. Pitch 3: climb up then traverse left across a blank face for about 15 feet to a right facing thin finger crack, follow crack up and belay from thin cams in a scoop. Pitch 4: Climb a beautiful face with scant protection, aiming for the crack about 100 feet above and then climb the chocolate-varnished plates – belay as high as possible. Pitch 5: Climb the beautiful face above and bear left for the top of the pillar of p6 of Solar Slab (60 meters). Descend as per Solar Slab.
Submitted by: moonbluff on 2005-11-17
Route ID: 71852
Not thrilled. First two pitches really owned by Sunflower, by far the better choice of routes. But I wanted to see what Heliotrope was about. The 3rd pitch is a bit run out. The 4th pitch is free soloing practically. I eventually went back into Sunflower's 2nd 5.9 pitch which is well protected. The supposedly great 5.6 above is all the same. When you do Sunflower, it traverses whatever Heliotrope had to offer. A route that does not need to exist on the upper Solar Slab in my opinion. Sunflower and Sundog are both 10 times better options. With Ben.