5.7+. Midway between Overhanging Layback and Welcome to the Gunks is a large left facing corner. (The start to Dry Martini.) 15 feet right of this, there is a left-arching vertical crack leading to a ceiling. Climb this, pull the ceiling (5.6+) and traverse right under a roof to a belay in a right facing corner. Go up the corner through an overhang (crux) and continue up the corner, which arches to the right, until you can swing up left to a stance. Going up one more bulge (exposed) leads to ledges and a fixed belay/rap station out right (A charming anchor made with two knifeblades.)
Submitted by: ontherocks on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 60046
climbed with beau. he led P1 and P2? and i led P3? anyway, first roofs to pull after wrist surgery, so that was fun/challenging. this is a stellar route though, and should get at least 2 stars in my opinion (dick williams gives only 1). he also rates it a 5.6, and i think it might be deserving of a 5.6+ (in my opinion the roof crux here is harder than the one on P3 maria, which gets the 5.6+) easy/good pro the whole climb. anyways, point is that i think this is an enjoyable and challenging route for the grade.