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Anger - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.20/5 Average Rating : 3.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts + 3 permadraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 2.67/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

2 low bolts protect the right side of a ledge stack. Walk the ledge to the overhung face. The 2nd permadraw can be hard to spot, up there in teh cave system; don't skip it!

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Last Modified: 2013-10-25
Views: 374
Route ID: 111044

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-09-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars pretty stout face crimping leading to juggy roof

it's a tough transition going from one to the other. Face was tough enough on its own, then you've got to make the transition and get over the roof.

Added: 2013-09-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Thin Face

Not sure about 11b or 11c, probably 11b but I think the face climbing moves are harder than on some comparable 11c's. Hmm. Well it's probably upper end 11b.

Added: 2013-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ematter on 2013-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Anger

The face portion of this route is pretty fun. It felt harder than 11b to me but it could be height dependent, I could have missed something, or something could have broke. I actually broke a hold on the face and fell off with it still in my hand but when I got back on it didn't feel any harder. After the face it's jugs to the top. I'll have to reassess the grade next time I'm on it.

The first bolt on the face is really hard to clip if you are short. I had to have my belayer pass up a stick clip.

Don't get sucked into the cave at the right and the good rests, it will be hard to get back to the proper exit and you'll end up exiting on The Airing of Grievances like I did, twice.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars meh

some fun moves on the vertical section and on the final ledge to top out. Poor/rotten rock quality in the cave make this less desirable than other surrounding routes imo

Added: 2012-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2009-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars after-thought turns easier than expected.

This went in after the bolted variations that cut left from Insane Tree Hugger. That overhung face looked hard and un-fun, but it proved neither. Long route. On an FA attempt, I hit the first part of the cave and broke choss off, dust going straight over my glasses and blinding me on the lead fall. That fall wasn't a little long, and it felt like forever. I remember trying to force my eyes open. I began seeing sky light, so turned my smokey gaze back to the wall in time to see my feet touch lightly. Rock fell a long way towards the belayer and 2-3 others, which was extra freaky.

Originally graded 11b when I had the face wired and the roof extremely wired (from working Festivus). I've upgraded to 11c after more input and revisiting the route. The power for me tops at about 10d, but there's no rest, it's fingery on the face and it's long with a wicked pump comparable to Mossatopia. Shorter people don't get the big low move I get, so that crux probably exceeds 10d by alot.

The Insane Tree Hugger sucks up most of the climbing energy around here, but this route's face section has stuff most people will like, followed by Pace Bend-ish roof pulling. It's finally getting traffic.

Added: 2012-04-12