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Welcome to the Gunks - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 190
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
PG
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.62/5
  Rock Quality 3.88/5
  Scenery 3.38/5
  Fun Factor 3.88/5

Description:

Rated as a 3 * climb, it has got 5 ceilings that you have to go thru. The 2'nd ceiling contains the crux where you have to jam both ur hands into the crack and pull yourself out of the ceiling.

Submitted by: saro on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1131
Route ID: 59504

10 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 10 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jaablink on 2005-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2009-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2009-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome and a little scary!

If this had some more good pitches on top of it, it would be the best 10 in the Gunks. A route with 4 or 5 cruxes, but with good rest before them. The 5.9 section is scary but I am not convinced it is R. I wasn't about to test it, though ;)

Added: 2009-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2009-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars I thought this was the hardest 10 I have ever done at the Gunks

It starts off with HARD slab moves (I am short and had a tough time reaching the big holds at the top of the opening slab). We did not do the opening slab as outlined in the gray dick, we moved directly under the roof and worked our way up the slab from there. It was crazy hard. First roof was fine, R section of the orange face was fine until the last moves under the roof. Up to slopers, oops off hanging into space, up to slopers again and pushed hard to get to the horizontal below the roof. Roof was fine, next roof was fine. I thought this route just keeps coming at you. Much harder for me than Feast of Fools and any other 10 at the gunks.

Added: 2009-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2009-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Welcome to the Gunks

Whoa! Slipped out of a layback at the second roof once, lowered to a stance and got it second try. A perfectly named quintessential Gunks climb: short hard crux moves, good rests, generally solid gear with a little short bit of sketch, and lots of horizintals!

Added: 2009-06-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: local_guy on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars lots of roofs

but the hardest move is getting up to the second one, a sort of scrappy move onto slopers.

Added: 2009-05-03

... Read all 10 ascent notes