Skip to Content

Southern Pillar - 5.2

Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 211
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
G
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Starts about 40 feet right of Hawk at a large left facing chimney. Second pitch goes up right past a large block to the GT ledge. You can split the pitch by belaying at the large block but I’d recommend doing it all as one. The pro is excellent. (one star)

Submitted by: pjcozzi on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1600
Route ID: 58509

12 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 12 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gblauer on 2013-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Ummm this was NOT worth it

What a bushwhack thrash fest. I did like the jutting rock squeeze on P2. I went behind the rock, cleared all the spiders and squeezed my way up. This climb is NOT worth doing. It's dirty and needs a lot of gardening. Never again.

Added: 2013-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: hoodlove on 2010-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a ride.

Found this to be amazing. Got off route a bit and learned a lot about rope drag and we each took a turn leading each pitch. Tadan, my 11 yr old son, Mike our newbie climber. We spent a lot time at Trapps camp teaching him anchors and knots and had a terrific day. We had a double rope rappel to go down on but we hiked down for the experience... We all wished we had rapped but now we know the way off from the top.

Added: 2011-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: AntinJ on 2008-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Climb @ the 'Gunks!

A very enjoyable, yet easy climb for a new second. The route finishes near a bolted rap-station with an exhilarating free rappel - especially for a new climber. This was my first climb at the Shawangunks and one of my first few multi-pitch routes/outdoor climbs ever. I seconded AMC Berkshire Chapter leader Ed K. on this route.

Added: 2008-08-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: happiegrrrl on 2008-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n/a

Partnered with Ben Harland and Kathy(tigerlilly). I took P1, and felt it was easy for the grade, barely 3rd class in some sections. But the little crux move is exciting for the grade. Ben intended to take the long second pitch. Alas, events conspired against him and foiled his progress just past the Laurel bush. We followed up and I took the lead for the rest of the route.

Exciting and fun, only at the Gunks can you worry about being pumped on a 5.2 - hahaha. Not as clean as I'd have expected of a classic, and had it not been for the historic ironware, I'd have thought I might have been blazing away off-route. Very fun climbing, though, with a sense of exposure the Gunks is known for.

I topped out at a birch tree and then stepped right under a large overhand and belayed form the alcove underneath. Someone else mentioned manky rings on a webbing...I suppose I saw that, on another birch tree about 10 feet to the left of the top out. I popped over to check it, and didn't even get close enough to see rings. I thought someone had bailed there. Couldn't see why they wouldn't build a gear anchor and go for the comfy belay, which connects to an obvious trail on the GT Ledge, which takes you to the rappel station at Madame G's.

Added: 2008-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: cyberb0b on 2005-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

4 pitches up, 3 rappels to the right

Added: 2005-07-31

... Read all 12 ascent notes