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Shockley's Ceiling - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.42/5 Average Rating : 4.42 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 142
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (150)
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3
Stoppers, tricams, and cams to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.38/5
  Rock Quality 4.57/5
  Scenery 4.48/5
  Fun Factor 4.54/5

Description:

Start left of a huge dihedral, climb an easy face to a decent belay ledge. Second pitch is very fun and steep 5.5 to a huge ledge under the obvious roof. The third pitch pulls the large(for 5.6!) roof and continues past another bulge to the top. Very classic, and the third pitch is often combined with Strictly From Nowhere for a stouter outing.

Submitted by: joel_gibbel on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 3378
Route ID: 3152

Most Recent Photos (See all 20 photos)

150 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: LamontagnedeGatineau on 2011-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Annual pilgrimage?

Great sandbag. Loved it! The route-finding lower down in the climb was more complex than I remembered, but really, it's impossible to get lost with that bit splitter up there...

Added: 2011-12-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: toeknee on 2011-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice to follow!

I onsighted this a while back, and Andrew had never been on it, so he got the whole lead. He was a little concerned about the "5.9" moves on the topo in that new coffee-table-picturre-book guide to the Trapps by Zack or Jack or someone, but he didn't have any problems with the moves (ps they are not 5.9).

We did the traditional first pitch so Andrew can get the onsight, but don't plan on doing that again! P2 is fun & mellow (watch rope drag.) The business is in the two roofs; Andrew belayed between the roofs so we could communicate. It was late in the day and getting dark, and we didn't want to set ourselved up for an epic. It was a good plan, there's a decent place to belay between the roofs.




Added: 2011-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: perelman on 2011-06-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Roof.

Mmmm... roof.

Added: 2011-06-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dbogardus on 2011-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ~

~

Added: 2011-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gwg on 2010-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun exposure

Don't think you need to pull the roof as seen in most of the pictures. Lots of variations so do what works best for you.

Added: 2011-06-08

... Read all 150 ascent notes