Routes : North America : United States : New York : Upstate : The Gunks : The Trapps : Shockley's Ceiling
Previous
Shockley's Ceiling - 5.6 popular
Average Rating : 4.36 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 142
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (133)
|
Rock
3
Stoppers, tricams, and cams to 3"
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Start left of a huge dihedral, climb an easy face to a decent belay ledge. Second pitch is very fun and steep 5.5 to a huge ledge under the obvious roof. The third pitch pulls the large(for 5.6!) roof and continues past another bulge to the top. Very classic, and the third pitch is often combined with Strictly From Nowhere for a stouter outing.
Submitted by: joel_gibbel on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Views: 1304
Route ID: 3152
Most Recent Photos (See all 20 photos)
|
|
|
|
|
133 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 133 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Second ascent by:
what a tricky move pulling that roof!!
climbed yesterday with beau. i led the first two pitches, which P2 was surprisingly really, really fun for the 5.5 grade. then i followed as Beau led the final money pitch. it is quite an awkward move, and i think rather difficult. even after watching him lead it, i have to say i was a bit intimidated crouching under the roof and staring up into the crack!! but i made it up fine, and overall really liked the climb a lot!!
the second crux in P3 is also rather challenging i thought.
i cant imagine how awkward it looks when people are climbing this naked!!
the second crux in P3 is also rather challenging i thought.
i cant imagine how awkward it looks when people are climbing this naked!!
Added: 2009-11-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
'
I'm now infamous w/ a couple of my partners for having 'humped' my way through the crux (glad I wasn't climbing it in the traditional style...); hope to return to this one & finish it in better form.
Added: 2009-10-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Shockley's Ceiling
Pretty fun climb with an awful hanging belay after the first roof.
Added: 2009-10-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Shockley's Ceiling
followed jitka
Added: 2009-10-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
A Classic
Just did this 26 years after the first time in 1983. It was just as enjoyable. Forgot the ceiling move sequence, and used a poor-style knee bar to clear the ceiling. Next time will be more smooth.
Added: 2009-09-17
