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Astro Yam - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 50
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
J. Marshall, B. Gross & S. DeMaio, May 1986
Rock (Trad)
G
7
Light rack to 2", one #4 camalot.
885
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The 2nd hardest line on the wall. Done in amazing ground up style, very runout and hard.

Submitted by: tonydevo on 2006-12-10
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 1294
Route ID: 2129

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2016-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

This is a very fun route with lots of sustained climbing above adequate protection but in need of retro. The route finding can be devious getting you to double check the topo on many pitchs. The first scrambling pitch gets you behind the pedestal to a 2 pin belay with lots of tat, 2nd pitch that has a R in the new guide and does deserve that has heady climbing with good movement, p2 is the first crux and that seemed to me to be the most sustained as well, not sure how loose the big loose block is but seems that it is used as hand holds at least closest to the bolt. P3 starts on a neat low angle ramp to an old rusty bolt with some tat on it (2016) to protect the seconds down climb, in fact if you can fashion a back belay perhaps with a tag line your second would be very happy, once to the first low bolt head up and right in what seems like a sea of limestone (somewhat scary pitch because of route finding with little gear) to another bolt. Cont up slightly right to the belay, bad bolt on belay ledge to possibly stop a slip. P4 is the graded crux, from belay head left to obvious feature and plug in gear as needed, at top of feature more gear as the first bolt seems like a long way, sustained climbing in the mid 10 range to the famous hole that we used a 5 and was tested with a decent fall seems to hold great. After the hole you have the crux section of about 10-15ft before your next bolt and easier climbing, if you can traverse left of the cam around the rib you can find great climbing. After the bolt cont up semi suspect rock with spaced pro to semi hanging stance. P5, I found after you clip the bolt cont up and left on good hidden holds as opposed to the down climb and flaring crack. Cont on good rock to past roof to higher ledge, traverse right to crack with short crux to great rock and great belay ledge. P7 head left and slightly up for 25m in order to find good weakness to the large ledge above, watch for loose rock, head right to a corner with good gear that will take you to the top, the were 3 new bolts just over the lip.

A very fun route, gives a lot of respect to the guys working it ground up as well as being lost in the 'sea' of limestone. Over all climbing seemed on the upper 5.10 range with short sustained crux's at grade but with lots of no fall zones

Added: 2016-09-17