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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Devil's Right Hand

Devil's Right Hand - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 87
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
A. Genereux, April 2007
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
6
Mainly bolts, a few med-large nuts, .4,.5,1,2,3 bd cams
560
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This route climbs the steep grey rock in the Bowl area, this route is basically a sport climb with about 5 gear placements or so on the route. This route sits between Red Shirt and Excallbur.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the east, most likely rap the route, a 60m will do it in 6 raps, a 70m in 5 raps with one rap being very close and serious

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-12
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 874
Route ID: 108640

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2011-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route, not real Yam

This is a good fast sport route although kinda sad to be climbing this route right beside the Bowl, East End boys and Yellow Edge. The route is very stright forward with the climbing being on the most part sligtly techy with a bit of power. The cruxs are very well protected.
I found that the 11b/c crux a bit soft for the grade, the second 11a crux very fun but did take a min to sort out the sequence, the thrid 11a pitch is fun but somewhat non descriptive. My partner and I found the last pitch 10c the best pitch with some great climbing and farily physical compaired to the lower 5 pitchs. We climbed the route in 5 pitchs as I linked the first and second pitchs. If I were to do this route again and had a timeline I think I would have brought a few more draws and linked oitchs 3 and 4 as well.
We rapped the route in 5 raps with the 4th rap being rope streach takeing you to the next anchor however I do rap with a backup system and when I get close to my ends I knot them as well. A fun route but by doing a route like this or Dreambed does not equall to doing CMC wall or Yellow Edge.

Added: 2011-05-12