1st Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Start up the short, but steep, wall past a bolt to access a corner. Move out left and clip a bolt on the wall and enter the steep corner above. Place gear and jam at will. Past a ledge with a piton belay (A-Route) and follow a shallow groove to a comfortable one man belay ledge with rappel rings on the left.
2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Continue up the groove past a bolt, making a move left to another bolt below a steep wall. Climb the wall on thin holds (crux of the pitch). Angle right to clip another bolt. Surmount a shattered bulge and continue angling right to another rappel ring belay on yet another ledge.
3rd Pitch- 50m- 5.9/ This was the rope drag from hell the way I did it and is the crux pitch of the route. Climb a groove directly above the belay past a bolt gaining a short slab. Continue up the slab and make a crux move over a bulge at another bolt. Climb a finger crack with good pro to just below an overhang. Gain the roof on the right via a mantle move and traverse far over into a steep and loose gully. I went left up a loose and precarious wall as the guide book suggested. Instead, stick with the center of the gully and climb up to a ring bolt belay on a solid piece of wall to your left at the top of the East End. This is a rope stretcher. Place double length runners where possible.
Walk off the east via the scramblers trail. It is not worth rapping, way too much loose rock. It is easy to walk off and do another route or two at the east end in the same day before losing the 1600’+/- approach gain.
Submitted by: dowww on 2008-11-18
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Route ID: 97114
A pretty solid route lots of fun, Just took took a single set of cams to #3 and a half set of nuts some draws and runners. Took the direct finish from Andy's update on Tabvar. Used the #3 for the very top anchor to back up the single bolt on the direct finish which avoids the chossy gully for the less chossy face. :)