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Broken Wing - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 16
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
A. Genereux, 2004
Rock (Sport)
G
7
This is just a run out sport route, you can take a .4,.5,.75,1,2 and you would be fine if confident on Yam
680
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

This is an ok route with a great crux pitch but is mainly a sport route. 10c is good Yam grade

Descent Options:

You can walk off or rap with 1 rope

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-05-12
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 851
Route ID: 99455

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route

This route is more or less a more sustained Pony Express. 1st pitch is easy for the grade, 10c is full 10c but I never found the 4" placement, 10b is one move with a couple of fun sections. In the 7 pitchs I think we placed 10 peices and I skipped about 10 bolts as well. Thi route is over bolted and you can find some gear placements within 3ft of some of the bolts.

The crux pitch is sport bolted and fun with thin climbing in spots and good foot work.

You can easily link pitchs, with a 70m rope I recomend 1 and 2, and 3 and 4.

Added: 2009-05-12