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Balrog - 5.10b

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 55
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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B. Greenwood, J. Moss & R. Nicholas, 1969
Rock (Trad)
full set of nuts, full set of cams to #5, double set to #4 will make you happy, pins not needed if climbing strong at grade, some fixed gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


This was the last major feature route climbed in the 60's and was one of the hardest routes on the cliff until the 80's. This route is a 'throwback old style yam climbing' with very little fixed gear and is not very clean at all. It is very strenuous for the grade with a large amount of loose and flakey rock and no fall zones as well. Although there are some face climbing areas this is mainly a chimney off width climb.

Descent Options:

Walk off is best, would be a horrible route to rap, you can rap lord of the rings with a 70m

Submitted by: tonydevo on 2004-08-30
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 1270
Route ID: 58680

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2012-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Hard route, fun???? hmmmm

This route was one of the last routes I needed for the Kallen 34 and although at times I can be pulling down a bit stronger I went there with a very strong partner since I had not climbed in over 6 weeks because of work and family. As we were both experanced climbers I failed to double check the start of the route as being my 80th or so route on Yam (would have figured I would know better by now) and I went up an obvious groove through loose and very runout ground that lead to the top of p2, I do not recomend that as it was a very poor desicion and very dangerous. Pitch 3 and 4 has some good climbing going around the big arch with some incredible rock that looks like it came stright from the balrogs labyrinth. P5 climbs steeply through loose rock with somewhat poor pro and possiably very high rope drag. P6 runs up some easy ground to a piller that on p7 you will step around head up the left side and than step low again to treaverse left on semi run ground to a loose corner to head up to the belay. P8 the crux pitch and it is that and some, climbs a steep crack with a very smooth left wall, the bolts on the crux would not take a fall although there is a newish selfdrive in that area but the crack takes good gear although the #5 while climbing tipped out. The chimney pitchs are just taht chimney with some loose rock and limited pro. The last pitch was a very good pitch with decent pro and fun climbing despit being chimney in a very sort of grillmirers type. The name of this climb is very fitting, not being a big lord of the rings guy but seeing the movies with my kids you can imagine heading into its labyrinth, through that boiled rock (big reason to do the route) battleing through the steedy and hard crux, going through the mountin in the chimney and exiting out at the top. A neat route although I found it very hard at the time.

Added: 2012-10-01

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: tonydevo on 2004-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-08-29