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CMC Wall - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 41
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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B. Davidson & U. Kallen, June 1972
Rock (Trad)
Single set of cams with micros up to #3, double .75 would be nice, small set of nuts, bolts, rivets
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


The well known 'hard climb' of the Kallen 34 and one of the hard classics of the wall. This climb is a old aid route that was freed in 1984 and retroed in 1990. It has some fine hard 5.10 climbing on it with a crux pitch that breaks though the big roofs at 11b with old bolts and rivets and holds breaking off of it (read serious climb). This climb is fun although very serious and a bit more difficult with holds breaking off. Be mindful of some loose rock as well as a lot of polished areas (some very polished), somehow this climb made it in the sport book and I must say that it shouldn't be anywhere near that.

Descent Options:

Walk off. Because of the overhanging nature of the wall it is very difficult to retreat above the 3rd pitch however with Super SDAW to the right you could come upon some escape.

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-05-25
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1763
Route ID: 99658

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hard and Serious

I found this climb quite hard and alot of the pro has something to be desiered. In its present state I would not really recomend it although it is a fine climb but not long for this world with the extream polishing and holds breaking off the crux pitch. With the crux I would recomend adding a letter for the start moves as well as the belays are in horriable locations.

I seconded the crux pitch at 5.11a a0 or so

The climbing is quite sustained with no real breaks as well when we did it a hanger was missing off of one of the bolts on the second pitch forceing you to use a 1/2" bolt from 1972.

Added: 2009-05-25