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Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Yamnuska : yam : Dazed and Confused

Dazed and Confused - 5.10b

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 29
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
B. Keller & J. Lauchlan, June 1976
Rock (Trad)
Set of wires, doubles from .4 to 3" and a #4 is good
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5


A climb that finds it way up a average line with not a lot of amazing climbing on it. There are a couple of good pitches with a lot of varied climbing that is soft for the grade in the new book, as well as some variations and a death pitch to climb as well if you want (read those gunning for a true Kallen 34), this climb pales in comparison to Necromancer or the like.

Descent Options:

Walk off the west side. The belays except for the death pitch are bolted but you will need tat

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-08-22
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 962
Route ID: 100938

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Death pitch was GOOD

This route is not a great route, the crux pitch is more of a 10a if not yam 5.9, the bottem pitchs are quite easy and no where near a yam 5.8 nor are they runout. Pitch 8 is quite good as well and for the most part ok climbing. The crux is somewhat short for the pitch with a couple of beefy bolts on it with the only troublesome part being the begging with poor pro off the blocks. I did the Death pitch as for my tick list and I do enjoy my choss but I did find some ok gear, lots of rope drag and I went up the right hand corner to top out, my partner who seconded both the crux and DP found the death pitch by far the hardest and scarrest he has ever done. I did not use the single pin anchor (its sad when you see it) but went about 5ft furth it a good stance that protects the belayer, I made a chockstone, a #3 and a micro cam off high right for quite a good anchor. I did take a screamer for the pin on the crux of the roof but found the top of the DP harder.

Added: 2009-07-20