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Excalibur - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 86
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
S. DeMaio & J. Marshall, April 1988
Rock (Trad)
R
7
Gear and bolts, full set of micro-cams to 3.5" and small selcion of wirers
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

This somewhat runout route used to be an amazing and scary show of Steve Demaio and Jeff Marshall's climbing abilty with poor to no gear, it has since been retro'd and with other bolted routes intersecting and bolted belays it has lost some of its rep but there is still ground fall on the first pitch 60ft up. This route is between Red Shrit and the Bowl area, it follows some weakness's breaching the steep grey and yellow rock in this area with lots of face climbing and some traversing to met up with the Bowl for the last two pitchs. Some of the best climbing on Yam and when you are on it look at the reasons why it was x rated and proof that the old days were the HARD days

Descent Options:

rap Grey Scales or walk off down the east side

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2008-04-27
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1128
Route ID: 93346

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: p_grandbois on 2010-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A great day

Took us nearly 2 hours more because of a small fall I took with a swollen ankle.

Added: 2011-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dead_milkman on 2008-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hmm...

i just climbed the first pitch yesterday... discovered a core shot in one of the ropes and decided not to continue... but i have to wonder, "what ground fall?" there is a retrofitted bolt on the first pitch and the protection up to and after that point is mostly excellent, with a short run-out before and after the bolt. anyway... there is a loose block about 2/3 height in yellow rock... take care until it falls off... we had much luck in moving it, but were unable to complete the trundle mission. good pitch of climbing... looks like it keeps getting better.

went for round two may 9/09: thought the crux pitch was over-rated somewhat, though back in the day one could imagine being a little more gripped from lack of pro; my partner and i thought the route came in around 10a/b. there is no need whatsoever to bring anything larger than a blue (3") camalot, despite the guidebook claims. fun route, though perhaps some restraint could have been employed when retro-bolting this route, as the protection on everything but the crux pitch was quite good.

Added: 2008-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2008-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars WOW

Awsom climbing with the first pitch still a litle scary with the ground fall, one of the best climbs so far

Added: 2008-04-27