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Gormenghast - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 63
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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J. Everett & D. Campbell, June 1993
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
Set of wires, set of cams from micros to #3, doubles of .5 and down nice but not necessary
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This route was the first 5.12 put up on the wall with lots of bolt protection while on aid. At this time the route is climbed in 4 pitches in order to join into Chockstone Corner, another good route although at a much easier grade. This route has some very good climbing on the upper 2 pitches with pitch 2 being the graded crux beginning a very techy very smooth area for about 10 ft or so. This pitch can be climbed at 5.12a free or 10b A0. There are a few points of clean pro on the lower 3 pitches however the last pitch has quite a bit of gear placements rather than what the book lets on.

Descent Options:

Rap the route or climb the upper wall be Chockstone or working your way onto Unforgiven.

Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2011-06-13
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 777
Route ID: 109088

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a A0
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2011-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very fun last pitch

This route was always in the background for me as I am not a strong 5.12 climber but having spent sometime on this wall trying to sort out High Voltage and finding Unforgiven, I found myself with a short day and a gullable partner. The first pitch climbs a shallow corner by 3 bolts and a single placement takes you to the big ledge and a new ring bolt belay for Unforgiven/Glory Days. The second pitch is completly fixed with a few moves to the right that you could maybe place something to protect this but the climbing is good and solid. This pitch has some ok techy climbing up to the crux. I love big moves on Yam with a bit of loose rock throwen in for excitment, this crux is very smooth and techy, a bit out of my scope of climbing. The crux can be pulled though at A0 easily. The 3rd pitch at 10c has some good climbing with about 3 clean placements and a fixed nut above the station with some good face climbing and although the route is sporty there still are dirty ledges and my partner pulled a flake off this pitch. The last pitch is a fantastic pitch with good gear great postion and even better climbing. In fact I would say that this pitch is the reason to climb the route and the rest of the route actually takes away from it. I found the climbing more sustained than the book suggested with the larger part being on gear, I only brought nuts and a single rack up to #3 and would have liked doubles of .5 and smaller but you can get away with nuts as well. Of note (2011) there is a bolted line on selfdrives as well heading up and right above the last pitch and it may be the direct finsh being routed??

Added: 2011-06-13