Gormenghast - 5.12a

This route was always in the background for me as I am not a strong 5.12 climber but having spent sometime on this wall trying to sort out High Voltage and finding Unforgiven, I found myself with a short day and a gullable partner. The first pitch climbs a shallow corner by 3 bolts and a single placement takes you to the big ledge and a new ring bolt belay for Unforgiven/Glory Days. The second pitch is completly fixed with a few moves to the right that you could maybe place something to protect this but the climbing is good and solid. This pitch has some ok techy climbing up to the crux. I love big moves on Yam with a bit of loose rock throwen in for excitment, this crux is very smooth and techy, a bit out of my scope of climbing. The crux can be pulled though at A0 easily. The 3rd pitch at 10c has some good climbing with about 3 clean placements and a fixed nut above the station with some good face climbing and although the route is sporty there still are dirty ledges and my partner pulled a flake off this pitch. The last pitch is a fantastic pitch with good gear great postion and even better climbing. In fact I would say that this pitch is the reason to climb the route and the rest of the route actually takes away from it. I found the climbing more sustained than the book suggested with the larger part being on gear, I only brought nuts and a single rack up to #3 and would have liked doubles of .5 and smaller but you can get away with nuts as well. Of note (2011) there is a bolted line on selfdrives as well heading up and right above the last pitch and it may be the direct finsh being routed??