Previous
Direct Mail - 5.10c
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
|
G. Dickie, 1998
Rock (Trad)
G
4
Selection of wires, single set of cams up to #3, double .75 and 1 come in handy
700
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
This route started in 1998 when the first pitch (and the best on the route) was climbed through some loose and runout rock. 2 additional long and mediocre at best and a fun 4th pitch was then put up with many bolts and the runout section on the first pitch was taken away with 3 bolts put in. The climbing on the first pitch is one of the best at that grade on yam with some very physical moves and great gear and very varied climbing. The 2 middle long pitches have mid point stations to break up the route with the last pitch being somewhat fun with the odd demanding move although it is more of a sport pitch with 2 gear placements and pulling over the top is a bit loose and watch for falling rock on the last pitch. In the book it states a 5th pitch of 5.4 but is more of a scramble over the top.Descent Options:
Walk down the west end, possible to rap route with double ropes
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-08-22
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1033
Route ID: 101408
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Excelent first pitch
This is a climb standing on the quality of the first pitch and to a lesser extent the last pitch, I found the first pitch very fun and the bit of questionable rock made it that more interesting. Of note with the book it states a 4 inch placement witch is closer to a 3 inch, as well had a very close call with falling rock from the last pitch in witch a microwave sized block fell right on the belay stance, the scream of ROCK and a quick step was able to keep a good day a good day so as the climber nears the top watch for rock and if any of his holds fail (very small area of climbing for this) while pulling the lip. As well the day that we did it there is a hanger missing from the 4th pitch as well.
If the rest of the route was like the first pitch (totally out of character of the west end) then this climb would be much closer to 5 stars, I recommend this pitch for starting any of the west end routes just for the harder climbing and for how fun it is.
If the rest of the route was like the first pitch (totally out of character of the west end) then this climb would be much closer to 5 stars, I recommend this pitch for starting any of the west end routes just for the harder climbing and for how fun it is.
Added: 2009-08-22
